Schumann’s Swiss Journey in 1829
23rd August 1829 – Baden [Aargau]
[Sunday, 23rd August – Pure blue sky – panorama of Basle – my throne – an educated coachman – lush meadows and vineyards – the Solothurn Alps – Coenzach (= Grenzach on the outskirts of Basle) – Rheinfelden (1)
– lunch in Mumpf (2) – good – the faded, grieving widow – rustic conversation – becoming more lively – and her languishing fiery eyes – the good Lucerne merchant – a lot of wine – dinner – the Frick Valley – Bözen – the Bözberg [Pass] – first view of the glaciers – Brugg – gloomy evening – Baden (3) – cheerful life – hanging around with the Lucerne merchant
4 Johann Jakob Leuthy’s description of Hotel Freihof: [The building encloses a free space surrounded by wide aisles where you can walk around at ease, protected from rain and heat. It includes 80 comfortably and tastefully furnished guest rooms, a delicately painted dining room which is followed by two small adjoining rooms, and one of the latter then leads to a ballroom which also serves as a reading room. The size of the building and the location of the ballroom allow to assign individual guests to such rooms where they can remain perfectly undisturbed in case of any dance events.]
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